San Fili: The Town of the Magare and The Fantastica
In every culture, there are stories handed down from grandparents to grandchildren that are part fairytale and part campfire-story. San Fili, where both my Italian great grandparents were born and raised, has one such story. San Fili is known as the “village of the sorceresses”.
These women were called Magare (plural is Magari) and they were not actually witches but rather naturopaths and healers. We’ve been talking a lot about Claire from the TV series “Outlander” and if that show was set in Italy, she would definitely be considered a magare. These women had knowledge of herbal and natural remedies, but were also very wise and charming. They told stories of love potions and magical healing.
In San Fili, there is a legend of a magare called Fantastica. She was a protective, mysterious, mother-like creature dressed in a wedding gown. Some in town think she might have been a girl called Stella who was put to death because she was an accomplice to banditry. Parents told their children the stories of Fastastica as a way to get the children to obey them. It is said that Fastastica appears in San Fili at the Piazza Francesco Cesario which is a crossroads at the southern entrance of the town (and right across the street from our B&B). This piazza has roads that lead out of town and another to the small village of Bucita. The square overlooks a cliff called “Zumpu da Fantastica”. In August, San Fili hosts a festival dedicated to the Magari, called “The Nights of the Magare”, with activities, performances and food!
When the Vice Mayor gave me my certificate, it mentions the Magare. Here is the translation of the certificate.
MUNICIPALITY OF SAN FILI
With
ROOTS TOURISM
THE MAYOR AND THE MUNICIPAL ADMINISTRATION WELCOME A
Elisabeth Robertson and her family who, on a journey in search of their “roots”, have arrived in the village of San Fili, an enchanted land with the mysterious charm of the sorceresses.
SAN FILI, 02 MAY 2023
THE MAYOR AVV. LINDA CRIBARI
