The week started with the one hour drive from Vietri Sul Mare to Naples airport to meet up with my mom and dad. They arrived in Naples a few days earlier so they would have a chance to rest and get over the jet lag. With a little bit of typical Neopolitan chaos, we found our way to the meeting spot, turned in the rental and hopped in the waiting shuttle to head to Positano. Positano holds a very special place for my parents. Previous to the shutdown for Covid, they visited the Cinque family at the Hotel California every year. They love the location, the food and the people of the Amalfi Coast. We arrived at the hotel and it was like a long awaited reunion. The family was there for my parents arrival and there were hugs and tears. Normally a yearly occasion, this trip was the first time in four years so it was a very welcome moment. We enjoyed a delicious pizza down the street for lunch, then took some time to settle in and enjoy the terrace view of the hillside of Positano.
Tuesday was a day for rest. We went down to the beach. Lance and I explored the beach on the other side of the main square where the hotel and restaurant Puppetto is. We had a nice beachside lunch — another pizza and a delicious plate of pasta. For dinner, we headed up to the favorite spot called Da Constantino. This restaurant is further up the hill but they have a car service that will pick you up and bring you back to your hotel. The food is typical Italian and it is delicious. On Wednesday, Lance and I went on a fun adventure…. we took a ferry to Amalfi, then a bus to Ravello which is high up on the side of the mountain. We went to the Villa Cimbrone which has the famous Terrazzo Infinito — a terrace looking out on the sea. It is well worth the stairs to get there and the view is breathtaking. We planned to walk from Ravello down to Minori. It’s all downhill and stairs but it was still a good bit of work for my legs. My knees were ok but my legs were like jelly when we finally arrived at the bottom. I can not imagine walking up…. that is something reserved for true athletes. In Minori, we celebrated with a snack and a Spritz on the beach at the Riso de Sale, and of course had to try one of their very famous desserts called Delizia de Limone. It’s a lemon cake with lemon cream and lemon frosting. It’s quite good!
The big surprise came Thursday morning when Emily arrived at Hotel California. My parents did not know she was coming as we had decided against it because it was a long journey for her. Instead, we surprised them with her showing up on the patio Thursday morning. It was a welcome and wonderful surprise, plus my parents were happy for her to meet the Cinques. We spent the day together exploring Positano — having a lovely lunch on the beach, some shopping and a crazy porter ride to help my mom avoid the hills in her boot. We love Da Constantino so much, we went back for dinner so Emily could eat there and we were delighted to see the former owner who my parents were looking forward to seeing; his name is Luigi. Another wonderful reunion and exceptional meal along with the beautiful views made it a really good day for us all.
On Friday, we took a bus up to Nocelle for lunch — a long and winding trip! We ate another delicious lunch with the most incredible views. This time, Emily and Lance walked back down to Positano together. Emily was happy to avoid the bus ride again! While my parents took a little siesta, Lance, Emily and I went down to the piazza for more strolling, a bit of shopping and some gelato. Another pizza dinner was the perfect ending to our time in Positano. Positano is such a unique and exceptional place but the one main drawback for me was the incredible number of tourists. It wasn’t even May yet but the streets were full and navigating the crowds was trying at times. I can not imagine a visit there in the heat of the summer and while it might not be the best option weather-wise, coming earlier in the season might be better for navigability.
On Saturday morning, a driver took us to Naples for a weekend there. We had booked two rooms at the fabulous Hotel Transatlantico which is in the Santa Lucia Waterfront area. It’s a great location — a bit away from the chaos but still close to the sights. We did not know when we booked this place in February (having starting communicating with the hotel when they were still closed in November) that we would be there for a very important home game of the Napoli Soccer Club. Saturday seemed sane compared to Sunday which was the day of the actual match. We enjoyed a pizza lunch at Antonio e Antonio on Saturday followed by dinner at the hotel. On Sunday, Lance and Emily headed to Herculaneum while Mom, Dad and I took a taxi up to the Galleria in Naples. The crowds were just starting to grow around noon so we knew we only had a quick visit with my parents. When Lance returned from Herculaneum, he and I met to get in on all the team spirit. We went back up to the main piazza called La Piazza per le plebiscito (the piazza for the people) where many, many, many Napolitanos were watching the game on their phones or in the local pizzerias. At one point, the roar of the crowds was so loud, we assumed the game had been won by Naples. Getting cell service was impossible for searching the internet to find out what was happening so we texted our soccer loving friends in the US to tell us what happened! In the end, the game was a tie (1-1) but good enough for Naples to continue on in the championship. Despite the absolute craziness, I loved every minute. Another thing is that I never felt unsafe… there are so many stories about Naples being a place with lots of pickpockets, etc. Perhaps because the streets were completely full of everyday Neopolitans, I felt comfortable and welcome the entire day.
If you have a chance to visit, the Amalfi Coast and the city of Naples are wonderful spots in Italy.
